Wines of France - Burgundy - Rankings

1. Pouilly Fuisse- Louis Satour (Cote d’Or)   (2003)

8 Ratings        Average- 2.875     Median- 3
Comments
“Tart and crisp.”
“Crisp, and a taste of grapes.”
“Strong presence of grape juice and antifreeze.”
“Hints of green apple and pear, with a soft presence in the mouth.”
“A smell of swiss cheese.”  “Nicely balanced, with a slight mineral taste.”
“Best white Burgundy this evening.”
“Not so much crisp, as crispy.”  “A jubilant wine to be sure.”
“Somewhat flabby, but smooth on the tongue.”  “Easy drinking by itself without the aid of food.” “Nose of granny smith apples.”

1. Chablis Premier Cru- La Foret      (1998)

8 Ratings          Average- 2.813     Median- 3
Comments
“Smooth.”
“Honey taste, but no sweetness.”
“Deep golden color.”
“Acidic and alcoholic, with a chalky aftertaste.”
“This wine finishes like Hileman hooks up…not at all.”
“Nose of honey, with light acidity to balance the sweetness.”

1. Saint-Aubin Les Charmois Premier Cru   (2001)

8 Ratings          Average- 3          Median- 3.25     Outliers (one 1.5)
Comments
“Sour, with a terrible smell and aftertaste.”
“Tastes like skunk, but I actually don’t think skunks taste that bad.  They smell like coffee.”
“A nose of skunk and armpit.”  “Tastes significantly better than it smells.”
“A very complex wine, with an offensive bouquet.”
“A smell of earth, skunk and grain.”  “Long finish.”
“Smells gross and tastes bad.”
“Buttery and little flinty, with good acidity.”  “This wine is complex and would go well with food.”

1. Moulin-A-Vent (Beaujolais)   (2003)

8 Ratings          Average- 3.25     Median- 3.25
Comments
“Very fruity, with a nice finish.”
“Fruity odor and taste.”
“Basic and fruity.”
“Earthy, with hints of black currants and red berries.”
“Fruity and uncomplicated.”

1. Bourgogne- Barthod  (2000)

7 Ratings          Average- 3          Median- 3.5      Outliers (one 1; one 1.5)
Comments
“Very smooth.”
“The triple crème cheese is delicious.  This wine is good as well”
“Strong vinegar taste.” “A poor wine.”
“Peppery.”
“This wine is French for ‘French.’”
“Terrible.” “The bottom fell out of this wine, leaving it far too bitter.”

1. Bourgogne- Louis Jadot   (2002)

6 Ratings          Average- 3.33     Median- 3.5
Comments
“Delicious.”
“A very respectable red.”
“A good representative of Burgundy.” “Very smoky and earthy.”

1. Vosne Romanee- Premier Cru   (1999)

6 Ratings          Average- 4.66     Median- 4.75
Comments
“This wine has character.  It is by far the best I’ve tasted on this fine evening.”
“Excellent!” “One of the best wines I’ve ever sampled.”
“An excellent example of a great Burgundy.”  This wine is complex and earthy, giving the drinker a good sense of the terrior.”

     

Wines of France - Burgundy - Info Packet

Overview

     Like Bordeaux, Burgundy shares the honor of producing some of the world’s finest and most expensive dry white and red wines.  However, in all other respects Burgundy is as different from Bordeaux as night from day.  While Bordeaux is mostly comprised of larger estates, Burgundy is extremely parceled, subdivided into tiny holdings by individual owners.  Moreover, Burgundy relies on a single grape type when making its wine, rather than employing the blending technique of Bordeaux.  Finally, Burgundy is controlled by large negociants, whereas Bordeaux’s single estates drive their wine business.
     Burgundy’s continental, temperate climate is often too unreliable, and it is only the presence of fortuitous microclimates that has earned Burgundy its fabled reputation.  Deposits of limestone in the soil allow for certain plots in the region to produce excellent wine, due to increased heat retention, and excellent water drainage and storage.
     Generally, white wines of Burgundy come from Chardonnay grapes, while red wines are produced from Pinot Noir.  However, other grape varieties can be found.  Small quantities of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (called Pinot Beurot locally) are used in some appellations for whites.  The white grape Aligote, as well as Melon de Bourgogne can be found in some obscure regional wines.  There are also small pockets of Sauvignon Blanc. With the reds, there is plenty of Gamay grown, and a small amount of Cesar, a little known grape found in the northerly stretches of Burgundy.

Appellations

     There are four different levels of appellation in Burgundy: regional; village; premier cru vineyard; and grand cru vineyard.  Each level, from regional up to grand cru, marks an increase in quality.

Regional
     There are more than fifteen regional appellations for Burgundy still white and red wines.  The most common include: Bourgogne; Cote de Beaune; Cote de Beaune- Villages; Cotes de Nuits- Villages; Macon; Macon- Villages; Cremand de Bourgogne

Village
     Within any region there are frequently individual villages that have been granted the right to name the wine after the village, as long as all of the grapes used came from vineyards within the boundaries of that village.  Village appellations have stricter regulations than the regions they fall within.  



Premier Cru Vineyard
     If a specific vineyard is designated a premier cru, then its name appears on the label along with the village name.  Premier cru wines should represent a distinct improvement over village-level wines, showing greater intensity of flavor, more complexity, and more structure and body.

Grand Cru Vineyard
     There are only 31 grand cru vineyards in the Cote d’Or region, and 7 in Chablis.  None exist in Cote Chalonnaise nor in Macon.  In Cote d’Or the words “grand cru” do not have to appear on the label; the name of the vineyard alone is sufficient; while in Chablis “grand cru” will appear. The grand cru’s are Burgundy’s most highly acclaimed wines.

Subregions

Chablis: This subregion is separated from the rest of Burgundy in location and in practice, as it is the most traditional.  The wines of Chablis are traditionally aged in oak feuillettes (132-liter casks) or slightly larger foudres.  Chablis mostly utilize chardonnay, and the cold climate and chalk soil provide the high acidity and the lean, green apple flavors noted in the wines.  Chablis has 40 premier cru vineyards, and 7 grand crus.

Cote d’Or: This is the world’s finest growing area for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The area offers a myriad of nuances in style that depend on the soil, rainfall, exposure to sun and wind, drainage, and the wine maker’s approach.  This subregion is broken down into two subsections, Cote de Nuits to the north and Cote de beaune in the south.  The former produces mostly red wines, while the latter is known for whites and reds.  Cote de Nuits has 24 grand cru vineyards, and 7 in Cote de Beaune.

Cote Chalonnaise: Vineyards in this subregion are dispersed over many hills, rather than being concentrated on a single slope like Cote d’Or.  Five villages have the right to use their own name as an appellation on the label.

Maconnais: The Saone River stretches through this hilly region, which produces mostly white wines from the Chardonnay grape.  Both Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais produce large quantities of sparkling white wine and a small amount of rose sparkling wine under the Cremant de Bourgogne appellation, which is a high quality, but less expensive alternative to Champagne’s sparkling wines.

Beaujolais: Beaujolais is technically a part of Burgundy, yet there are significant differences in terms of climate, soils, and even grape type.  Beaujolais is much warmer and has a granitic soil base, which retains significant heat compared to the limestone soil in the rest of Burgundy.  This region is famous for its production of easy-drinking, fresh and fruity reds, that are often enjoyed by those who do not usually prefer red wine.

Wine Night #1 - Bordeaux - Ratings

Thanks to everyone who attended our inaugural wine night for the 2005-2006 drinking year. You made it a smashing success.

Click here to see how the wines got rated:

Ratings:

I. Chateau Carbonnieux- Grave (Pessac-Leognan) (2003)

(9 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 2.61) (Median Rating: 2) (Outliers: one 4.5)

Comments:

· “Buttery, and somewhat acidic.”

· “Smooth.”

· “In a lot of ways this wine mocks the palate by arousing sensations with its clever smell, only to disappoint with a lackluster finish.”

· “Very buttery finish; excellent!”

· “Sour and acidic.” “Dull with no finish.”

· “Tastes like butter.”

· “Too buttery and acidic; poor finish.”

II. Chateau Potensac- Medoc (1994)

(10 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 2.8) (Median Rating: 2.75) (Outliers: none)

Comments:

· Too closed; too many tannins

· “If Budweiser is the King of Beers, this is the Court Jester of Bordeaux’s.”

· “Hate it!”

· “Grassy, with a decent finish.”

· “Nice finish, but dead in mouth.”

· “Dull, with a dry, rough, long bitter finish.”

· “Reminds me of puppies and Christmas.”

III. Chateau La Tour Carnet- Medoc (1996)

(11 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 3.04) (Median Rating: 3) (Outliers: none)

Comments:

· “Awesome!”

· “Tastes of tobacco and leather.”

· “Would be great with food.”

· “Mild dryness.”

IV. Chateau Soutard- St-Emilion (1996)

(10 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 2.95) (Median Rating: 3) (Outliers: none)

Comments:

· “Much weaker than III.”

· “Lots of fruit, a great bouquet, and a bit chocolaty.”

· “Smells like a tootsie pop.”

· “Smells like feet or overripe bananas.”

V. Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere- Grave (Pessac-Leognan) (2000)

(9 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 3.22) (Median Rating: 3) (Outliers: none)

Comments:

· “Very smooth.”

· “Very dry.” “Too young.”

· “Strong presence of black currants, and blackberries.”

VI. Chateau Rabaud-Promis- Sauternes (2000)

(9 ratings) (Avg. Rating: 3.66) (Median Rating: 4) (Outliers: one 1)

Comments:

· “Like honey; could have used more acidity.”

· “This wine is the best!!!”

· “Liquid honey; the nectar of the gods.”

Wine Night #1 - Bordeaux - Info Packet

As an added bonus, you will now be able to find the ever-thorough info packets for this and all the following wine nights on this blog. Enjoy!

Overview

Arguably the most prestigious region in the world, Bordeaux is known for producing unrivaled red wines from famous estates such as Chateau Latour and Chateau Margaux. However, these represent only a small proportion of the region’s total output, which includes excellent dry and sweet white wines, as well as a broad array of dry reds.

Bordeaux’s wine making philosophy is blending. The Bordelais realized that different grape varieties respond different to changes in climate, hence, by growing a number of different varieties they have ensured high quality wine each year.

The region spans 284,000 acres, of which more than 280,000 are dedicate to the production of appellation controlee wines, with the remainder producing lower-quality vins de table wine. Within the region are 57 different appellations, and over 12,000 vinerons (wine growers) producing approximately 850 million bottles of wine per year.

Bordeaux’s coastal and latitudinal position provides it with a gentle, mild climate, and pine forests to the west protect the region from the Atlantic Ocean winds. High levels of rainfall also benefit the area, as irrigation is banned under the AOC.

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Grape Varieties

The appellation controlee authorizes 6 grape varietals for whites, and 6 for reds.

Whites Varieties

1. Semillon: This grape’s warm peach and apricot characteristics make it a favorite of sweet and semisweet wine producers, and its rich lanolin texture is a perfect counterpoint to the highly acidic Sauvignon Blanc.
2. Sauvignon Blanc: Dry whites from Bordeaux are dominated by this variety. Its vibrant green fruit characteristics and high acidity ensure a freshness and youthful vivacity in the dry whites.
3. Muscadelle: With naturally low acidity levels, this variety is mostly used to add floral and aromatic fruit component to white wines, especially the sweet and semisweet versions.
4-6. Colombard; Merlot Blanc; Ugni Blanc: These three varieties are used in very small quantities, mostly by lesser estates.

Red Varieties

1. Merlot: The most widely planted grape in the region, this variety’s appeal is based on its rich, ripe, plum fruit character and its relatively early ripening, which is a distinct advantage in an area that can get cool quite quickly at the end of summer.
2. Cabernet Sauvignon: High acidity and tannin levels, with black currant fruit characteristics allow this variety to be better suited to the warmer vineyards of the region.
3. Cabernet Franc: This variety is found in small quantities throughout the region, mostly appreciated for the mineral, floral, and red berry notes hat it contributes to any blend.
4-6. Petit Verdot; Malbec; Carmenere: These varieties are used very sparingly. Petit Verdot is a very finicky grape and is only able to be controlled by some of the top chateaux.

Labeling and Classification

With the blending of wines, a particular wine from a chateau may change in its consistency from year to year. The best blend is given the first label, which is usually under the name of the chateau itself. With the leftover wine, chateaux have different options. They can produce a second label, or sell the surplus to negociants who will eventually blend them with the surplus from other chateaux and market them as regional, district or village wines.

Wines produced by individual estates usually carry the name of the chateau on the label, but individual chateaux do not have their own appellation, each falls with a village, district, or regional appellation. Regardless of appellation, over more than two centuries there has evolved a classification of many of the finest chateaux in Bordeaux, which are still used to identify those estates that have consistently produced high quality wines.

Since 1855 four official classifications of Bordeaux have emerged, one each for the reds of Medoc, the sweet white wines of Sautrernes/Barsac, the red wines St-Emilion, and both the whites and reds of Graves. The district of Pomerol has never been classified.

Wines of France - Loire Valley and Alsace - Info Packet

Overview

With the overall cool climate of northwestern France, dark grapes would never reach full ripeness, so most of the wines form the Loire Valley are white. Nevertheless, the region still offers a broad array of styles, utilizing different grape types according to their suitability to the different soil structures and climates that can be found throughout the vineyards that line the rive Loire and its tributaries.

The defining characteristic of Loire Valley’s wines is a high, sometimes searing acidity, though it never comes across as simply sour.

The full roster of grape types grown is extensive, including everything from Chardonnay to the rare white Romorantin, and from Cabernet Sauvignon to the mostly unknown red Grolleau. The broad array of grape types is match by the production in the different Loire districts of almost every wine type (light to medium-bodied dry whites, sweet whites, dry roses, semisweet roses, sparkling whites and roses, and light and medium bodied reds).

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Regions
Western Loire

The Nantes, or Atlantic region, in the westernmost part of the Loire is cool and ideally suited to the Melon de Bourgogne grape, known locally as Muscadet.

There are four distinct appellations in this region:

1. Muscadet: offering the lightest and simplest style of wine
2. Muscadet des Coteaux de la Loir: providing wines of a little more fullness, but still very tart and lacking a little in full fruit ripeness.
3. Muscadet Cotes de Grand Lieu: making wines of noticeable weight and structure
4. Muscadet de Sevre et Maine: known for the fullest and ripest styles.

In addition to the Muscadet grape, Gros Plant (known elsewhere as Picpoul or Folle Blanche) is widely planted in the Atlantic region, producing light, simple, fresh wines in the VDQS category.

Central Loire

Central Loire can be split into three provinces: Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine.

This region offers the broadest selection of types and styles of wine made from several different grape varieties.

Anjou Province
1. The three main appellations are Anjou Rouge, Anjou-Villages, and Anjou Gamay. The latter focuses on Gamay grapes, while the former two concentrate on Cabernet Franc.
2. In addition to these three several other important, but smaller appellations exist (some of which are very special).
3. The Savennieres appellation produces high quality wine from the Chenin Blan grape (grown on volcanic soil). Two grand cru sites, Chateau de La Roche-aux-Moines and Coulee de Serrant, are the pride of the area.
4. The Coteaux du Layon appellation produces some of the finest dessert wines in France. Two smaller appellations w/in Coteaux du Layon are Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume, both of which produce excellent grand cru wine made from Chenin Blanc.
5. The Cremant de la Loire and Anjou Mousseux appellations are those which produce Anjou’s sparkling wine. The former produces very smooth sparkling wine.

Saumur Province

1. Saumur-Champigny is the province’s specialty red, produced mostly w/Cabernet Franc.
2. Coteaux de Saumur is the province’s answer to Anjou’s Coteaux du Layon, yet its wines do not completely measure up.
3. Saumur Mousseux and Cremant de la Loire are Saumur’s producers of sparkling wines. Saumur is second (but a distant second) to the Champagne region for amount of sparkling wine produced in France.

Touraine Province

1. Three important subappellations w/in the overall Touraine appellation are Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau, Touraine-Amboise, and Touraine-Mesland. All three produce fresh white wines from the Chenin Blanc grape, though the Mesland appellation may add significan quantities of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Bland to the blend.
2. Bourgueil and Chinon are the two best reds of the region and are made from Cabernet Fran w/some Cabernet Sauvignon. Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is another appellation which produces good reds.
3. Vouvray appellation produces whites from Chenin Blanc and some sparkling wines. It also specializes in a style called sec-tendre, usually translated as “off-dry.” The Mountlouis appellation, which used to be part of Vouvray produces very similar wines.
4. Jasnieres appellation, which consists of a small town on the river, produces very few wines a year. Their Chenin Blanc whites offer a range of smells, from floral, quince, and melon, that are part of their appeal.
5. Coteaux du Loir produces about the same amount as Jasnieres, but does more reds and roses than whites.
6. Cheverny appellation produces sparkling wine, roses, reds, and whites best consumed soon after bottling.

Upper Loire

The wines in this region are dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines that are the benchmark for what a good Sauvignon Blanc should taste like.

The vivacity and complexity of the region’s finest wines are due to an unusual combination of Kimmeridgian (chalky marl) and Portlandian (hard limestone) soils that promote finesse, length of flavors, and a distinct flinty, mineral quality.

The Pouilly-Fume appellation produces wines from Sauvignon Blanc. Two excellent producers are Chateau de Nozet (which produces the fine wine Baron L.), and Didier Dageneau. When these wines are consumed in the region the grape is known as Blanc Fume because of its smoky or flintlike aromas. This inspired Robert Mondavi to begin labeling his Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc wines as Fume Blanc, and many other American wineries have adopted the name.

1. Aside from Chateau de Nozet, other good producers Chateau de Tracy, Les Loges, and Les Bascoins.

The Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation produces wines made from the white Chasselas grape variety. They are generally considered to be less characterful than Fumes.

The Sancerre appellation is larger than Pouilly-Fume, and produces leaner and more bracing whites from Sauvignon Blanc. Most of these wines are best drunk young. Some of the best producers include Le Chene Marchand, Les Monts Damnes, Chateau du Nozay, and Le Clos du Roy.

Quincy appellation produces dry whites from Sauvignon Blanc w/herbaceous and gooseberry aromas.

Menetou-Salon appellation offers dry whites, roses and reds from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. These wines are similar in style to Sancerre.

Reuilly appellation produces clean whites and light dry reds using Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Alsace

Introduction

Alsace is one of the rare wine regions in the world devoted almost exclusively to white wine. More than seven different varieties are common and, with few exceptions, they are whites rarely made in other parts of france

Although by law Alsace is a French wine region, it has also at various times in its past belonged to Germany, with the result that many of the white grapes grown are the same as those produced in Germany.

The most important grapes in the region are: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris (formerly called tokay), Muscat, and Pinot Blanc – all of which are white. The lone red grape, of which only a tiny amount is grown, is pinot noir.

By law, all wines, even red ones, must be bottled in the easily recognizable long, tapered bottles called flutes d’Alsace

Most Alsatian wine can be broken down into 3 main types:
1. Regular: standard bread-and-butter wines
2. Reserve: has no particular legal designation, and producers typically make multiple reserve wines – sometimes 4 different reserve reislings, for instance, from the same producer.
3. Late harvest: made when the harvest permits, these wines are either merely very concentrated wines (the vendange tardive late harvest wines) or concentrated, sweet wines made of grapes that have been infected with Botrytis (the ‘noble rot’) (the selection de grains nobles late harvest wines).

Philosophy

Alsatian whites are powerful, bold, dramatic, and virtually always taste dry.

Furthermore, they are made according to the belief that the winemaker’s goal is not to craft a wine with certain flavors, but to showcase the inherent character of the grape itself. Because of this, blending is unusual, and the most highly regarded wines are almost always 100% of the variety named on the label.

Because of the focus on expressing the grape itself, the winemaking is hands-off. Indigenous yeasts are usually used instead of commercial yeasts, and the wines are made in neutral containers – stainless steel or cement tanks, or older, inert casks called foudres – instead of young, oak barrels that might impart additional flavors.

Alsace was one of the first regions in the modern world to label its wines according to grape variety, rather than by the locale where the grapes are grown, as is done in all other parts of France.

The Land

Alsace is about 300 miles due east of Paris; the vineyards run north-south in one long, thin strip over the foothills along the eastern flank of the Vosges Mountains. Germany’s Rhine River is about 12 miles to the east, and Alsace’s river Ill is about 6 miles to the east.

After Champagne this is France’s northernmost wine region, yet is fairly sunny and dry.

The best vineyards are south-facing for maximum sun, and most are located in the southern part of the region, known as the Haut Rhin or Upper Rhine.

There are 50 Grand Cru vineyards in the region

This is generally recognized as far too many, however, and the yield set for the Grand Cru vineyards is generally recognized as much too high for the production of great wine.

As a result, some top producers, as a form of protest, refuse to use the term Grand Cru on the label even though they own Grand Cru vineyards.

The Major Wines

Riesling

Alsace’s most prestigious grape, Riesling is the source of its leading wine.

While it shares the grape with Germany, the two regions produce very different types of wine with the grape.

Fine German Reislings tend to be very nuanced wines, low in alcohol, with good acidity and a pinch of sweetness.

Alsatian Reislings, on the other hand, are mostly very dry, broad wines with palate-coating flavors that lean towards gunflint (trust me), steel, and minerals, with hints of peaches, green plums, and citrus notes. Famously, when aged, they take on a viscosity and flavor that is often referred to as “petrolly”

Great examples include: Clos Ste.-Hune and Cuvee Frederic Emile, as well as Domaine Zind Humbrecht’s Rangen, Domaine Weinbach’s Cuvee Ste.-Catherine, and Domaine Marcel Deiss’ Altenberg de Bergheim.

Gewurztraminer

Almost always seen without the umlaut – this being France – Gewurztraminer is something you either really like or can’t stand.